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Circular fashion consultant Gemma Metheringham asks: is buying secondhand fashion a ‘good’ thing to do?
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Main image: processing cotton at the Remill factory
Every year, millions of T-shirts and Black Friday impulse buys end up in landfill – despite being made from cotton that could be reused.
Globally, only 1% of clothing is recycled back into new clothing, leaving the vast majority to become waste.
With an estimated 80% of Black Friday purchases ultimately discarded, UK circular clothing brand Rapanui is turning that waste into a new collection made from recovered cotton fibre.
Founded in 2009 by brothers Mart and Rob Drake-Knight – from a shed on the Isle of Wight and with just £200 – Rapanui has grown into the UK’s leading circular brand.
The brothers went on to develop the circular manufacturing model Teemill, a platform now used by thousands of brands to create and sell sustainable clothing without holding stock or producing excess waste.
To close the loop, the brothers also created Remill, an open take-back programme that accepts 100% cotton clothing from any brand (excluding denim and underwear).
Returned items are recovered, shredded and respun into new recycled products made from 50% post-consumer recycled cotton and 50% organic cotton.
In 2025 alone, the programme recovered over 14,000 kg of cotton, bringing the total to more than 102,000 kg since launch — equivalent to the weight of 887 adult giant pandas.
‘Black Friday is a symptom of how waste has been woven into the way our world works. Products have been designed to be thrown away, meaning the only way to create growth is make and sell more products and create more waste. We built Teemill to solve that issue.’
MART DRAKE-KNIGHT
Co-founder of Teemill
Rapanui’s newest collection is printed on T-shirts that use cotton recovered through Remill.
They feature circular-themed nature designs — from the concentric rings of a tree trunk to the bloom of a dandelion — to reflect the idea that materials should return, not be thrown away.
Click here to shop the new collection.
Made from what was once worn, powered by renewable energy and designed to be returned, this is what circular fashion looks like.
After a long life of wear, these T-shirts can be returned for recycling.
Simply scan the QR code inside the product or request a returns label at remillfibre.com.
Participants can also receive Rapanui store credit for everything they send in, including any 100% cotton clothing from any brand.

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