Organic fashion

Finding sustainable textiles isn’t as easy as it should be – Soil Association Certification’s Paige Tracey shares what to look out for when you shop
Quality control of the cotton plant crop

This article first appeared in our Earth Day 2025 issue of My Green Pod Magazine, published 22 April. Click here to subscribe to our digital edition and get each issue delivered straight to your inbox

Over half of Britons say it is important that clothing is ‘sustainable’.

In a separate survey by McKinsey, 67% said ‘sustainable materials’ were an important factor when it came to purchasing garments.

What is less clear is what people understand ‘sustainable fashion’ to mean – all the more so because this is an industry that loosely regulates eco-friendly language and is full of greenwash.

Unfortunately, despite consumer demand for more sustainable clothing, the fashion and textiles industry continues to be among the most polluting.

The way materials are made, combined with what consumers do with them after use, means the global fashion sector contributes more carbon emissions than the aviation and maritime industries combined, as well as being the second-largest consumer of water. 

The good news is that if we break down the most polluting parts of the industry, we can find ways to help people make more sustainable fashion purchases that align with their preference for more sustainable materials.

Natural or synthetic?

While cotton is a natural, biodegradable fibre, conventional (non-organic) cotton is one of the world’s most polluting crops.

It uses 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of all insecticides, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions as well as having negative impacts on workers’ health. 

Yet the answer isn’t to go synthetic. Textiles made from synthetic fibres like polyester are actually the leading cause of ocean microplastic pollution, representing well over a quarter of all the microplastics in our seas.

There is growing evidence of the negative impacts of microplastics on not just environmental but also human health. 

While opting for recycled polyester may seem a good option, these fibres still contribute to the issue of microplastic pollution.

This is one reason brands like Continental Clothing have stopped using plastic fibres completely, and instead use organically produced natural fibres.

When ‘organic’ is not organic

Organic fibres seem to be the obvious choice; they are biodegradable and are grown without polluting pesticides.

However, just looking for the word ‘organic’ does not necessarily lead you to a more sustainable item of clothing.

In fact, brands can legally use the word ‘organic’ on clothes that contain minimal organic fibres. 

Fortunately, the Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS) guarantees a fully traceable supply chain back to the farm.

GOTS-certified garments must be made with at least 70% organic fibre, whether it’s cotton, linen, hemp, wool or anything else.

Another increasingly popular choice is man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), such as viscose, which come from sources like bamboo.

Again, shoppers need to look for third-party certifications like FSC and PEFC to ensure the material is not sourced in a way that leads to deforestation.

Brand names like Tencel also ensure the fibres are created in a closed -loop system, meaning environmentally damaging chemicals used in processing the fibres, such as carbon disulphide and sodium hydroxide, will not leach into water supplies and pollute our environment.

Dyes and forever chemicals

Dyes are another major contributor to fashion’s footprint. Not only are they water intensive – with estimates of 200 tonnes of water being used for every tonne of textiles – they can also contain hazardous chemicals that are often discharged straight into waterways.

Again, GOTS has strict requirements on which dyes can be used on certified garments.

The dyes must pass strict biodegradability and toxicity tests above the industry legal baseline.

Manufacturing facilities must also show that they are not allowing the dyes to enter and pollute local water supplies. 

PFASs, or ‘forever chemicals’, have recently gained press attention due to their links to fertility issues, cancer and diabetes, alongside other health problems.

They are popular for water resistance on outdoor garments – but these chemicals are, and always have been, banned under GOTS.

Fashion and human rights

Finally, it’s no secret that the fashion industry is often extremely exploitative, particularly in developing countries where legislation on workers’ rights is less developed.

Disasters like the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in 2013 brought home the human toll of fast fashion – but sadly, little has changed in the industry overall.

EARTHDAY.ORG has reported that only around 2% of the 75 million individuals working in garment factories are being paid a living wage.

80% of these workers are women, who are often subject to gender-based harassment.

GOTS has several guarantees when it comes to how garment workers are treated.

GOTS-certified factories must have workers’ rights that meet the International Labour Organisation requirements.

These include the right for workers to unionise, codified protections for vulnerable categories like women and a prohibition on child labour.

Facilities are inspected annually to ensure they are upholding these requirements.

While the fashion and textiles industry continues to present problems for people and planet, options like GOTS and other certifications give consumers a clear guide for how they can vote with their wallet for a fairer industry.

Remember: its ‘our planet’ – and we have the power to protect it.

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