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BY KATIE - MYGREENPOD, 16 Feb '18
Paula Knorr, the designer to watch at London Fashion Week, about women, power and sexiness – plus backstage beauty tips
This season, Weleda is sponsoring London-based fashion designer Paula Knorr, who will reveal her Autumn/Winter collection at London Fashion Week on 19 February 2018. Paula’s presentation will take place in the main British Fashion Council show space at 4.30pm.
Paula’s earned a reputation as one of London’s most exciting and talented designers; her strong feminine designs have been worn by the likes of BJÖRK, Solange and Katy Perry and featured in Elle, New York Times T magazine, I-D and Heroin Magazine, to name a few.
With a keen interest in the multifaceted nature of the female psyche, Paula designs clothes that redefine sexiness for modern women, with a view to empowering the women who wear them.
Ahead of the show, we spoke to Paula about how the balance of power is shifting for women, what sexy means and whether she thinks femininity is about anything other than the expression of sexuality.
Power and sex
So is female power all about sexiness? ‘No, not at all’, Paula tells us. ‘I just find that the concept ‘sexy’ in femininity is something that was long defined through men’s visions of women. I think this is something we should change and define for ourselves. Sexiness and femininity are something so personal. Every woman should have the chance to create her own true version.’
In light of the big shift in consciousness around women and power at the moment, we asked Paula whether she thinks her future designs might reflect a different type of femininity. ‘Absolutely’ she tells us. ‘For me femininity is never something definite. Every woman creates her own idea of femininity.’
‘Womenswear today consists of everything from extreme nudity to demure precision. Inspired by this freedom, a body-hugging sensual collection evolved that pushes the boundaries of eveningwear with distinct female power.’
Paula says her main goal is to create a wardrobe for those women who are not afraid to be strong and powerful but equally feminine. ‘I want to connect to women who feel lost somewhere between gender neutral and overly sexual’, she says.
For Paula, the woman – rather than the clothes she wears – should be in the foreground. It´s all about her body, her movement and her personal beauty. Paula was inspired by seeing more and more of her designs on real women in everyday life, and wanted to expand her research of a new female identity. How do real women choose and wear their garments? How does this change their perception of themselves?
Paula’s AW18 garments have been deconstructed and reconstructed to create a collection full of her signature cutting methods, dramatic drapes and fluid forms.
Form is contrasted with strong and sophisticated colour – luxurious fabrics in bold red and burgundy, darker twilight tones plus softer monochromes and shimmery metallics. The new collection will include elegant eveningwear for all generations, with a grown-up take on glitter and glitz.
Weleda at LFW
Weleda’s NATRUE-certified skincare will feature in exclusive gift bags for guests attending Paula Knorr’s show. The bags will include a selection from Weleda’s sophisticated Evening Primrose range – a luxurious Concentrate, Eye & Lip Cream and Hand Cream – to compliment the concept and autumnal tones of Paula’s soon-to-be revealed collection.
Paula Knorr was born near Frankfurt in Germany where Weleda is a household name. Herself a vegan, Paula is a long-term fan of the Weleda range. ‘I grew up in Germany and both my mum and my grandma used Weleda products’, she says. ‘Weleda, with the brand’s holistic and natural approach to beauty, is the perfect partner to my idea of individual and unique beauty.’
Click here to find out more about what Weleda’s doing to clean up the beauty and personal care sector.
‘I wanted to expand my idea of a strong and natural, sensual woman through all aspects of the show. Weleda has the same approach to femininity, so our collaboration feels absolutely natural to me. I also use Weleda products on a daily basis. At such an important event like my show, it matters to me that I can happily stand behind all the products included.’
Backstage beauty tips
Backstage, makeup designer Martina Lattanzi and her team will be working exclusively with Weleda skincare to prep 18 models of all ages – youngsters in their early 20s as well as models in their 50s and beyond – for an ageless and individual makeup look.
‘My makeup inspiration for this collection comes from the word ‘unique’. I will be creating an exclusive beauty look for each model, tailored to their individual personality, age and self-expression. Makeup that brings out an idea of beauty that belongs to different ages. My inspiration was found in iconic women from the ‘90s: Jennifer Connelly, Tatjana Patitz, Charlize Theron, Kate Moss… All different to each other but connected to an idea of timeless beauty. An iconic makeup redesigned with a modern twist.’
Weleda is sponsoring the London Fashion Week makeup team for the third season, and Martina says this pioneer of green beauty is the ‘perfect partner’ in helping her to create ‘a beautiful and conscious makeup look.’
‘I found in Weleda the ideal blend of natural ingredients to create a flawless and radiant complexion’, Martina says. ‘Skincare is always the first step to create a beauty look, and for this season we will be using Weleda’s Evening Primrose products. This versatile range works perfectly on mature and younger skins, an exceptional range that boosts and revitalises sensitive skin.’
Click here to find out why Weleda Skin Food is a MyGreenPod.com Hero
A 3D sensory experience
Martina is also excited to be introducing the beautiful Evening Primrose Concentrate into the skin-prep this season. She says this serum is ‘a skincare must-have to add to your beauty regime, especially in the coldest months of the year.’
‘After freshening the face with the One-Step Cleanser & Toner, I gently massage the serum into the skin followed by a little Evening Primrose Revitalising Day Cream made with organic evening primrose oil’, Martina says. ‘I’ll be working with Weleda’s new mineral pigment Beauty Balms rather than foundation – these are the lightest of products that even out minor blemishes but the skin remains luminous, letting the model’s individuality shine through.’
To add an extra dewy and bright finish, Martina will use one of her favourite and signature products for this look: Weleda Skin Food. She says it’s ‘a multi-tasker that can be used as a face mask, moisturiser and highlighter. Backstage I normally use it as a natural highlighter to illuminate cheekbones, eyelids and brows to enhance the features that make a woman unique, and to create a shimmer that echoes the metallics in Paula’s collection.’
‘I love to work with Martina as she understands my wish to work with each model’s personality and unique look, rather than putting one mask-like makeup on every girl.’
This season, Paula Knorr’s guests can explore a 3D sensory experience, combining Paula’s visually stunning designs with live music, fragrant skincare ingredients and soft natural perfume in the air. ‘In the final lineup, I will be using Weleda’s Jardin De Vie ‘Onagre’ fragrance’, Martina says. ‘It’s a mix of floral notes of magnolia, cardamom and sandalwood – an elegant scent for a sensual and timeless evening look.’